Fifty Shades of Sepia
Skin lightening vs. accepting diversity in South Asian
advertising, fashion & showbiz
Laaleen
Khan
Makeup by Vani Nath; Photo by Chang |
* Featuring exclusive interviews with Aaminah Haq (New York), Aamir Mazhar (Dubai), Atiqa Odho (Karachi), Cyrus Dalal (Mumbai), Faisal Farooqui (Lahore) Humayun Farooq (Karachi), Kavita Emmanuel (Chennai), Mariam Omer Farooq (Lahore), Maryam Rahman Agha (Karachi), Mehrbano Sethi (Lahore), Natasha Saigol (Lahore), Vasanth ‘Vani’ Nath (Mumbai).
* Special thanks to Amber Rauf at Lowe & Rauf (Karachi), Payal Kripalani (Mumbai), Tanya Hingorani at EnGild (Mumbai), Zofeen Saigol at Pitch Media (Lahore).
If
advertising mantras are anything to go by, people tend to covet what they
don’t—or can’t—quite have. When ivory skin yearns for a bronze tan, a subsequent
sunbathing trip to a beach, tanning salon (or a cosmetics counter for discreet
self tanner) is in order. However, when mocha complexions desire a peaches-and-cream transformation, the results can be more extreme.
Alek Wek |
The great Bollywood whitewash
In the
Indo-Pak subcontinent, ‘whitening’ facials are a common staple at both high-end
spas and low-end salons, while the retail sector brims with multinational
‘lightening’ products and mass-marketed ‘fairness’ creams.
Mumbai-based fashion photographer, Cyrus Dalal, feels that
“selling insecurity has been the modus operandi” of multiple industries over
the last century. He explains, “A conglomerate of industries…keep people from
feeling satiated about their present state…The possibility of feeding people
solutions for ‘fixing’ themselves to achieve perfection handcrafted by cosmetic
giants is limitless.”
Photo by Maryam Rahman Agha |
“There is a long history behind the obsession with light skin, owing
to caste and culture,” says photographer Maryam Rahman Agha of Wonder Years,
Karachi. “South Asians are very racist and this deeply ingrained
notion is perpetuated by peer groups, magazines, billboards and TV
adverts…focusing mainly on 'fair skinned beauties’ often fabricated through
Photoshop techniques! Bollywood stars and cricket players regularly endorse
this idea by appearing in ads for skin-whitening products.”
Bollywood celeb endorsements of skin lightening products |
Makeup by Vani Nath; Photo by Chang |
Amy Jackson |
Celina Jaitley |
Nargis Fakhri |
Yana Gupta |
Aaminah Haq in a makeup-free selfie |
Veteran Pakistani model and New York-based Brand Manager for Isabelle Lancray USA, Aaminah Haq says “Other
than Kareena (Kapoor)
and Katrina, all the major players in Bollywood like Priyanka (Chopra) and Deepika are very desi girls with a healthy golden/bronzed
complexion.” Citing actor-models Aamina Sheikh and Amna Ilyas as examples, she asserts, “The most beautiful in
Pakistan have always been the women with beautiful, bronzed skin. It's about
time we embrace our inner beauty and love ourselves for who we really are.”
Bipasha Basu |
“Bollywood has a few darker skinned complexions such as
Deepika, Bipasha (Basu)
and Rani Mukherjee
because it has a variation of states it caters to,” opines Dubai-based Aamir Mazhar of Savvy PR
& Events.
“Darker skinned models have made it in Pakistan like Iraj Manzoor and Neha Ahmed because of their camera posturing and catwalk abilities.”
“Darker skinned models have made it in Pakistan like Iraj Manzoor and Neha Ahmed because of their camera posturing and catwalk abilities.”
Neha Ahmed |
Tall,
Fair and Handsome campaign, India |
Max Fairness campaign, Pakistan |
It doesn’t get any more macho and rugged than the Pakistan Army,
reportedly the biggest consumer of FAL in the country. “Our
consumer connects showed that there was a significant proportion of closeted male
users of Fair and Lovely products who use products purchased by mothers,
sisters and wives,” explains Humayun
Farooq of Unilever Pakistan, which produces the Max Fairness line for
men. “This was not a major surprise…We promote (the)
usage of safe fairness solutions which produce results over a longer period of
time and are not instant in nature. None of our brands produce instant fairness
on immediate contact. A thin film of cream covers the face which, based on the
complexion of the consumer can give the effect of foundation but not more.”
Glamourizing brown-ness
While many people across the developing world continue to be ‘colonised’
by a white-is-better/happier mentality, there are celebrities who speak out
about the phenomena.
Indian-origin supermodels Lakshmi Menon and Ujjwala Raut triumphantly
appear on the runways of European couturiers in “an industry that’s
dominated by blond-haired, blue-eyed women” (as Menon puts it to NTY.com’s
India Ink while actress Freida
Pinto causes a frenzy of flash photography each time she hits the
Hollywood red carpet. Notably, it is only after
their international successes that they were invited to grace the covers of
leading Indian glossies. “It is more shameful than
hypocritical,” says WOW’s Emmanuel. “Our industries are not hiding the fact
that they prefer lighter skinned models. Having said that, kudos to our ladies
for not giving up on their dream and shaking things up internationally.”
“Although
I worked in India for several years, I never had much success since all the big
ad campaigns featured Bollywood starlets,” admits Menon, while Pinto confides
to The Independent that
“people (in India) are so fascinated by white skin…there are actors who
admit it–the fairer you are, the easier it is…The amount of pancake cream on
your face is ridiculous…If a cream can give you confidence then you really have
to check your whole confidence department in the first place."
Kavita Emannuel attributes celebrity supporters to help her campaign
“gain visibility” within India and internationally. “They have helped jump
start conversations in the media as well,” she says. “It’s great to receive
support from within the industry especially when it comes to us challenging the
industry to change their approach to selecting talent or even portraying
stereotypes.”
Actor Nandita Das, celebrity spokesperson for Dark is Beautiful, told
the BBC’s Woman’s Hour, “When I do an urban character or if I do an affluent
educated character then invariably, either the make-up artist or director or
somebody will come and kind of sheepishly tell me ‘I know you don’t like to
lighten your skin but because you’re playing an educated character, maybe you
should.’”
Reportedly, other Bollywood actors who have refused to endorse fairness
creams include Akshay Kumar, Esha Gupta, Bipasha Basu, Ranbir Kapoor and Anushka Sharma.
Aaminah Haq during her modeling career |
“The fashion industry to a certain extent does
represent all skin tones,” says Cyrus Dalal. “Most of our top ramp models are
of a darker hue…Advertising is where there is a big discrepancy between skin
tones. Bollywood as well doesn’t cater to darker skin tones.”
The ‘Miss America’ race-storm
Stoic despite the flurry of racist
comments about her ‘terrorist’ ethnicity among Americans and her ‘dark’ complexion
by Indians, Miss America 2013 Nina Davuluri (a New Yorker of South Indian origin) revealed to
The Washington Post, “(In India), the more fair-skinned you are, the
more beautiful you are. And they spend tons of money on skin-lightening creams,
bleaches, products, and here (in the USA) it’s vice versa; we spend so much on
tanning products.”
Kavita Emmanuel describes Davuluri
as “inadvertently” becoming “an icon for racial and colour discrimination.” She
adds, “She is Indian American and yet, was criticized by both these countries.
By choosing to rise above the discriminatory comments, she is truly promoting
and celebrating cultural diversity. My question to our nation is, ‘instead of
celebrating that an Indian won a contest, why are we shocked? Why are we unable
to accept her success? Is the colour of her skin really that big a deterrent
for us to celebrate with her? We are so bothered by the racist remarks made by
Americans. Fair enough. But how about looking at racism or colourism to be more
precise in our own nation against our own people?”
“I feel like this whole idea of wanting something
that you don't really have is also very American in a way,” notes Freida Pinto.
“They love tanning! Why the hell are you tanning that much? Then in my country
people want a fairer skin tone! It's just crazy…So when I was that Indian
export that went to America and people were wanting that natural tan – which I
don't really have to go through tanning (to acquire) – they were excited to
include something in their culture, into their film industry, that was not
really there already. Or not properly or appropriately represented. So I just
feel that this was a change.”
‘Lightening’ vs. ‘brightening’
claims
For many, it seems that the intent is to even out the complexion rather
than effectively lighten all of the skin.
“One of the main facts is that some people develop uneven
pigmentation due to unprotected exposure to the sun. These (lightening) products
are essentially sunblocks at the end of the day and can help with that,”
explains Aamir Mazhar.
Garnier Pakistan |
Regarding cosmetics products marketed as
‘brighteners’ in western countries and ‘lighteners’ in the eastern hemisphere,
Sethi says it’s “a rose by any other name... The global product category for
over-the-counter lightening/brightening/whitening products that contain a
regulated percentage of active ingredients and are available without a doctor's
prescription, is essentially the same, utilizing the different names or terms
that resonate with their target market, culture and region. Caucasian women do
not respond at all well to ‘whitening,’ but will rush to buy a ‘brightening’
product to lighten freckles and dark spots. Asian women respond to ‘whitening’
and ‘lightening.’ Brands like Shiseido in Japan use ‘white’ as a preface to an
entire skincare range.”
“Fairness products also act as preventive and
protective agents against sunlight, dirt, ageing and other deterrents,”
explains Humayun Farooq of Unilever Pakistan. “They ultimately nurture the skin
for the future and make (users’) outlook and self perception positive.”
Shades of beauty
An image from Atiqa Odho's ad campaign |
“Being beautiful makes a woman feel powerful.”
is how Atiqa Odho
puts it in the philosophy of Odho Cosmetics, with a product line that includes
an SPF 15 face powder in warmer shades like Walnut, Chocolate and Coffee.
Luscious Cosmetics’ only skincare product, Ultra
Protective Whitening Base SPF 35, is described as “a multi-tasking suncreen,
makeup primer, and moisturizer that has skin-clarifying and dark-spot fading
properties.” Explains Mehrbano Sethi: “We use the term ‘Whitening’ in the
product name because it was inspired by a Japanese formulation now commonly
known as BB cream and is meant to convey radiance, skin clarity and an even
skin tone to the Asian consumer.”
Rooshanie Ejaz styled by Natasha Saigol |
By Mariam O Makeup Studio |
Sonia Mishal; Photo by Faisal Farooqui of Dragonfly |
“If you take advertising work for example, all the models are overdone and their skin tones are way different (than actuality),” explains fashion photographer Faisal Farooqui of Dragonfly in Lahore. “In bridal (photography) we try to keep in close to natural (skin tones). In the end, it’s always a customers' choice and preference.”
“As a photographer, it is exciting to work with dramatic and varied skin complexions like one would experiment with different colours on a canvas,” says Maryam Rahman Agha. “However, working on a commercial project it is understood that the client is by and large looking for light skinned models to represent their brand. Experimental fashion shoots are an exception,” she adds.
The verdict
A Caucasian model for Emami India's Zyada campaign |
“Change has to begin in our homes and permeate into other arenas,” stresses
Kavita Emmanuel. “Aren’t we a nation with 1.2 billion shades
of beautiful?”
As Aaminah Haq puts it, “I am a brown girl and I embrace it. Too
bad if someone else can't.”
***
Think about it...would any of these talented young Hollywood success stories have made it as Bollywood A-listers? Why not?
Mindy Kaling (The Mindy Project) |
Aziz Ansari (Parks & Recreation) |
Reshma Shetty (Royal Pains) |
Sendhil Ramamurty (Beauty & the Beast) |